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Joined: 11/23/2004
Posts: 12274
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 11:42:00 AM

Russian styles are invading U.S. stores and they’re being greeted with open arms.

This season the fashion world embraced gilded trims, cinched waists, full skirts, folkloric embroidery and even fur trapper hats.

“It’s odd that a lot of designers were on the Slavic slant,” says Cynthia Steffe, whose own collection was inspired by Russian fairy tales she read to her 2-year-old daughter.

But as she dissects the design process, she isn’t so surprised that Russia emerged as a theme on so many runways: “So much of what we do is fabric-driven. The mills were focused on things rich and opulent, textured and metallic. The fabric was very luxe to begin with.”

And, she adds, the color palette, with regal jewel tones such as emerald, ruby and amber and all shades of gold, also seemed to lend itself to the look.

Before Steffe starts sketching, she drapes the fabric on mannequins to see how it falls. The result reminded her of the silhouette of the images of a doll in those aforementioned children’s stories.

“The Russian doll was my muse. ... She had a cinched waist and full skirt,” Steffe said.

That led Steffe to research the intricate borders, jacquards and embroideries favored by the czars. It made sense as a follow-up to this past summer, when bohemian looks were accented with beads and other embellishments.

But where last season was influenced by designer’s travels to Morocco and India, Oscar de la Renta and Diane von Furstenberg were among those looking farther east for fall. Von Furstenberg even called her collection “Winter Palace” and explained that she was referring to the Russian Revolution.

“When you think of somewhere really cold for inspiration, you eventually get to Russia,” notes Sally Singer, Vogue’s fashion news director.

She also points to fall and holiday as the prime times for more opulent fashion.

The way to wear the Russian look is to mix one glamorous and gilded piece with more casual garments.

“I loved the fall collection because it’s really luxury for everyday. There are so many different ways of pairing things. You wear rich opulent jackets with a pair of jeans and a T-shirt,” says Steffe. “It’s very versatile if you break the pieces down. You wear an embroidered velvet skirt with a simple sweater and flat boots and you can go walk to dog.”

Steffe has already worn a doll-print cashmere sweater with a chiffon bib and open lace work, and she says the Russian-style skirts are generally flattering because they’re slim at the hips and then flare out.

For someone who is just beginning to experiment with Anna Karenina’s wardrobe, Cindy Weber Cleary, the fashion director at InStyle magazine, suggests starting with a coat. An officer’s coat with braids and gold buttons is “loosely Russian,” she says, as is a princess line coat or a colored coat with embroidery.

Fur trim is almost an instant ethnic touch. “When you throw on a fur hat and boots, you have a Russian look,” says Weber Cleary.

And she likes a fur vest with jeans.

To evoke Imperial Russia, there are capes and blouses with lace trim and full sleeves, but Weber Cleary warns that these pieces can be too costumey if you’re not careful. “These are clothes to have your portrait painted in, they’re not your everyday work outfit,” she says. “But you certainly can take an element of it and wear it.”

The Russian style has an easier translation into eveningwear. “A beautiful ball skirt with a blouse with full sleeves can be beautiful, but for a cape, you need a certain amount of swagger to pull it off. If you are that confident person, then you’ll look great in it,” Weber Cleary says.

Almost anyone, though, can wear the printed peasant dresses. “The look is a little ‘70s with the long sleeves and high waist,” Weber Cleary observes.

She predicts women will particularly like the proli
Joined: 7/3/2005
Posts: 77
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 12:47:00 PM
The latest GSUS line is HIHOPUSHKI.... or something like that. There is clothes with Russian writing on it and all of it is very very Ruski. Its very nice quality.

Russia is fashion central of the world :). But if I ever see a fat Kanadon wearing our telnyashka in the lineup to McDonalds I am going to beat the living fu(k out of him.
Joined: 5/25/2003
Posts: 2710
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 12:49:00 PM
Да, я заметила что в Европе есть много такого. Я даже себе в Барселоне купила майку где написано "Russian Aviation School" :))))
Joined: 11/23/2004
Posts: 12274
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 12:51:00 PM
"But if I ever see a fat Kanadon wearing our telnyashka in the lineup to McDonalds I am going to beat the living fu(k out of him." - why???

я лично видела черного в красной футболке с серпом и молотом и с СССР (си си си пи как это назвали:) на хрудях.
Joined: 11/12/2003
Posts: 21852
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 1:07:00 PM
"... It feels nice to have sleeves; you’re not always worried about hiding your arms. It’s a comfort thing.”

of course it is very fucking nice when you can hide your slabs of fat and the excess of adipose tissue... your fuckin' sickishly pale skin and unwanted body hair :)
Joined: 3/17/2003
Posts: 16925
Posted on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 1:12:00 PM
наконец тулупы и валенки вошли в моду?

I am losing my insanity...
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